Day 9 - Dublin

Today was rainy and cold.  As the newscaster this morning said:  “The temperatures are rather disappointing for May.”  Had our first buffet breakfast in this Dublin hotel — the best yet.  There were so many offerings that we (ok, Kathy) didn’t try that we are going back tomorrow morning before we leave. 

Then we walked out into the rain to Trinity College Dublin to see the Book of Kells, an illustrated manuscript of the four Gospels created by Christian monks around 800 AD.   The tour takes you through the Long Room of the Old Library filled with over 200,000 old books.  Amazing!

After a coffee break we headed to the GPO (General Post Office) Witness History Visitor Center where we learned all about the Easter Rising rebellion in Dublin where the GPO building was used as headquarters.  It was very interesting, informative, interactive, and had the best bathrooms we’ve seen in Ireland!   

We ate lunch at the GPO cafe (also good) and then the skies had cleared a bit so Jack wanted to concentrate on taking some photos.  We went to Croppies Memorial Park First just to see the Anna Livia statue (she’s a character in a James Joyce novel), which Dubliners call “the floozy in the jacuzzi.”  Then we walked west on the Liffey River so he could take pictures of the Four Courts buildings.  Unfortunately we quickly discovered there was scaffolding up all around its dome.  So Jack took pictures of the nearby St. Paul’s Church instead.  We walked past the Shelbourne Hotel on the way back the hotel, where British snipers worked from the upper windows during the 1916 Easter Rising.

Dinner was at a restaurant named after a Irish politician and businessman who ended up spending a lot of time in France (James Napper Tandy).  Our waiters seemed to be French, but the singer/guitarist there sang Irish songs (after he said Bonjour to everyone). 

Tomorrow we fly home.  We’ve had a great time and learned a lot this trip about traveling overseas! 

Day 8 - Galway/Dublin

Finally a morning where we had nowhere to rush off to!  We slept in and enjoyed the huge breakfast buffet included with our room charge.  We even tried Weetabix, “the nation’s favourite cereal.” 

After breakfast we walked the pathway along the Corrib River which is joined by a canal and the Friar’s River (according to the plaque on a stone).  This walk took us to the enormous and beautiful Galway Cathedral built in 1965 on the site of an old jail.  We walked back through the shopping area and discovered St. Nicholas Collegiate (Anglican) Church, built over 700 years ago.  Then it was time to check out of our hotel and board a train back to Dublin.  The return trip seemed to take a lot longer.  

James our taxi driver from Heuston Station loved pointing out more sites, but we also noticed that he was taking us the long way back to our Dublin hotel — so his tip got shorter.

We unpacked our overnight bags and went out again, exploring St. Stephen’s Green Park a bit more including the Fusilier’s Arch (Europeans love arches!) which is a tribute to soldiers killed during the Boer War (1899 to 1902).  We ate dinner at a Middle Eastern/Pizza place which was nice and bright after being in so many dark pubs.  One thing we’ve noticed, our servers are never in a hurry to give us our check (but the food service is always fast).  We have always had to ask for our bill at every sit-down meal on this vacation.  Are we Americans in too much of a hurry? 

Kathy was really exhausted, so we went back to the room before it got dark to plan our final full day of this trip.  There is a 98% chance of rain tomorrow, but we have been so lucky with the weather for this whole trip that we won’t complain.  Jack had actually hired a local photographer to act as a guide out to some of the more scenic landscapes well away from the city tomorrow.  That got cancelled due to the weather.  Maybe next time.

Day 7 - Galway

This morning we took a taxi to Heuston train station in Dublin for an overnight trip to Galway.  We kept our room in Dublin so we only had to take an overnight bag with us.  The train ride was scenic as we went through Portarlington, Tullamore, Clara, Athlone (a bigger city), Ballinasloe, Athenry, and Oranmore.  Galways is on the west coast of Ireland.  At one of the stops, Jack jumped out to clean the window on the outside of the train in order to take photos (it was very dirty).  Kathy was nervous and frantically gesturing, worried that the doors would close before he got back on the train.

Our hotel in Galway was right next to the train station, very convenient.  We were able to check in early, then head toward the city center which is very popular with tourists.  Ate lunch at the Quay Street Kitchen, which had an interesting mix of Asian and Irish menu choices.  But it was good — we have been pleasantly surprised with the food choices at restaurants and pubs in both England and Ireland.

Then we set off for a walk along the bay which was very pretty.  We saw the memorial dedicated to the 100 ships that carried emigrants away from Ireland during the famine and walked along the Mutton Island Causeway, which we thought led to a lighthouse.   Along the way, Tomas started up a conversation with us.  He is a resident of Galway and likes to talk to tourists.  He told us about the cladach there — which means rocky beach — and explained that a sewage plant was built not too long ago at the end of the causeway (and blocked the lighthouse access).  He also explained the cliffs on the opposite side of the bay, similar to the Cliffs of Moher - another tourist attraction too far away for a half day trip.

Then we walked back to the bustling shopping area to have dinner and of course shop!  Afterwards we walked back to the promenade along the bay so Jack could take pictures at high tide before sunset while Kathy walked towards Salt Hill, the seaside resort part of Galway.

By the time we got back to our hotel (around 10 p.m., sunset wasn’t until 9 p.m.) all the hotel’s big glass revolving and regular doors were locked and we couldn’t get inside.  We had to wait for a passing bartender to let us in — not sure why.  It’s not a bad part of town, if there are any in Galway.

We grabbed a drink from the bar and we were done for the day.  Our room faced the bay and the window opened which was a nice touch!

Day 6 - Dublin

This morning we walked to the Dublin Hop on Hop off bus.  The bus company had changed names and routes since we signed up for it a month ago, but we figured it out quickly.  Our first bus driver was a very funny tour guide, but most of the buses offered (and the ones we rode later) only had pre-recorded tour information.  We prefer the live guides!  The guide had typically three descriptions for each subject, monument, or building pointed out along the way.  While laughing at the second description, the third just cracked Jack up every time.  And all descriptions were in rhyming fashion.  That seems to be common.  Jack asked one of the guides a question on the way off the bus at one time.  It’s clear they do a lot of research for their tours. 

As one would expect, Ireland is a rather religious country.  Dublin alone with only around 550,000 residents in the city proper has 651 churches.  Dublin also has 850 pubs.......

We took the bus about halfway around the city and got off at the Jameson Distillery.  Because it was early, we only had to wait 20 minutes to join the next guided tour which was great with high-tech graphics and displays.  We learned about the growth of the Jameson brand and the science behind the drink.  We also taste-tested and compared Scottish, American, and Jameson whiskeys.  Jack preferred the American, Kathy thought it was all yucky but she tried them all.  At the end we each got a free drink in their very nice bar area. 

We hopped on the bus again to the city center for lunch since our next tour was going to again involve alcohol.  At Bankers pub we had traditional (and good) Irish food.  Jack’s burger had Clonakilty pudding on it which the waiter said we should look up later but he recommended it (it’s blood sausage and it was good). 

Then it was back on the bus to the Guinness Storehouse which was a self-guided museum-type attraction.  Our Dublin pass got us in quickly past the crowds in line, but the whole place was very crowded (and we had followed our book’s recommendation on when to avoid crowds).  Some of the exhibits were good but the “tasting” room seemed silly because it just taught you how to “taste” a small glass of Guinness.  At the end of the tour you get a tall glass of Guinness.  You are supposed to enjoy it in the Gravity Bar, a top floor room with scenic views that were probably great but we couldn’t see much with the standing room only crowds.  We found a bench on another level to finish our drinks (Kathy does like Guinness).    

We got back on the bus and took it to the River Liffey and walked east along the river to the Famine Memorial in memory of those who suffered or had to emigrate after the potato famine.  Then it was back to the hotel for dinner in the busiest hotel bar we have ever visited, and packed up for our overnight trip to Galway tomorrow.  

As always, more photos are in the gallery.

Day 5 - London/Dublin

We had to get an early start Saturday because our noon flight to Dublin was moved up a few hours.  We’re not sure if people generally don’t like the Heathrow bathrooms, or perhaps the Dublin airport bathrooms.  Upon taking off from Heathrow and the announcement that the captain had turned off the seatbelt sign, immediately at least 20 people got up to form a line to the bathroom.  The line stretched a third of the way up the aisle, and more kept coming.  All for a 55 minute flight!  We were never served drinks because the attendants had to keep moving their cart up and down the aisle to accommodate the people going and coming from the bathroom.

Our taxi driver from the airport, Gerard, who looked at least 75, gave us an infomative ride and told us about Ireland’s past “troubles” with the English.  He said several times during the ride “but that’s all in the past now”. It was clear by his tone that it was not in the past for him.

Our hotel room by St. Stephens Green Park was ready so we checked in and left to explore the park and find a pub for dinner where we had some great seafood chowder and other foods.  Then we walked to St. Mary’s Pro-Cathedral for 6 p.m. mass, which had a great cantor, some songs and most responses in Latin, and a succinct sermon which meant only a 45 minute mass!  

After mass, we walked along both Grafton Street and Henry Street which are closed to automobiles and absolutely packed with people, musicians, and stores.   Nearby is the Spire, which is a stainless steel, 394 foot tall, pin-like monument at the city center.  We’ve since learned that the Irish have other rhyming names for it, including the Spire in the Mire, the Rod to God, and the Pole in the Hole.  There are other names for it, but you’ll have to google them because we prefer not to print them! 

A statue of ​Daniel O’Connell, the Irish liberator who brought about the Catholic Emancipation stands tall over O’Connell street watching the river.  The seagulls like him too. 

We stopped at another pub in the Temple Bar area which is a bustling nightlife spot.  Then back to the hotel to get ready for a full day in Dublin tomorrow. 

Day 4 - London-Oxford

Today’s quote:  “Mind the silent assassins.”

We took a train to Oxford today from Paddington Station.  120 mph.  Wow, not like the metra trains around Chicago.  We didn’t realize until after we were settled in our seats that the little red lights above our seats meant they were reserved.  Another passenger told us that not everyone shows up for their seats, and luckily they didn’t, as by the time we realized this it was standing room only until the next stop (we were more careful on the return trip). 

Arriving in Oxford, we walked to the City Center to find Footprints Tours for an 11 a.m. walking tour.  Our tour guide was a recent history graduate of Oxford and gave us a great informative and funny tour.  Although more of the university than normal was off limits due to it being exam time, we got into the chapel at Trinity College and were able to walk around the gardens there.  Trinity College was founded by Thomas Pope.  He had no children or relative to carry on his name (to be remembered), so in order to be remembered, he had his remains buried to the left of the altar.  Yep, you see him in the glass cabinet.  Hard to forget him right there!  For a closer photo with........something in there, go to the gallery.  We didn’t get too close as Kathy didn’t want to have nightmares.

The tour lasted two hours and flew by.  We know a lot about Oxford now, which is where the aforementioned “silent assassins” — bicyclists — must be watched for so you don’t get hit by one.  Even if one forgets to look the opposite way than in the U.S. for automobile traffic, the oncoming sound is still there as a warning.  Not so with bicycles moving at a good clip.

After the tour we ate at Turf Tavern, the pub where Bill Clinton “did not inhale” any illegal substances.  Our tour guide said it was clearly the best in Oxford and his favorite.  Next we walked around Christ Church college and gardens and past that college’s cathedral.  Then it was on to the Ashmolean Museum, which belongs to the university and features art and archeology.   Kathy went in (lots of pretty blue glass there!) while Jack stayed outside to watch the crowds.  It was interesting that this museum is advertised as “free” but when you walk in there is a person standing by a big clear box making sure you put in a 5 pound donation!

We walked quickly back to the train station to head back to London before rush hour (and price increases!).  Time to start packing up to fly to Dublin tomorrow.

Day 3 - London

Started off the day by walking a short distance from our hotel to St. Clement Danes Church that Jack had heard about through a photography website.  It’s a small church dedicated to the Royal Air Force and is quite ornate and overlooked by tourists. 

Then we took the tube to the Tower of London.  We did an audio self-guided tour because the next yeoman tour wasn’t for another 1/2 hour (and the groups were very large).  The tour and our own exploring (a lot about beheadings!) took a little over two hours. From there we boarded a river cruise on the Thames.  It was getting chilly but we braved the top level for better views.  That cruise took us under the Tower Bridge and over to Westminster.  From there we took the tube to Notting Hill where we had the traditional fish and chips at another pub.  By the way, England doesn’t seem to have as many craft breweries as we do in the U.S.

Next we walked through the expansive Kensington Gardens to Kensington Palace.  On Trip Advisor the palace did not receive great reviews recently because some rooms are closed for a new exhibit about Queen Victoria opening later this month.  But we were glad we went.  The rooms that were open had beautiful artwork and all the staff kept making sure we saw the Tiara Room which was just as it sounds.  Do you think Jack should buy Kathy a tiara (that also doubles as a necklace) for our anniversary? 

From there we walked to the Prince Albert Memorial statue which was HUGE.  Across from that was the Royal Albert (concert) Hall.  To bad we couldn’t get in there to feel the music in the walls, as Jack’s brother Jim would say.  We took the tube back to the hotel, explored the large and partially outdoors Covent Garden Market, and called it another day.  21k+ steps.

We’re glad we have an hour train ride tomorrow to Oxford.  We need to rest our legs.  

Day 2 - London

 “You Americans like to cram a lot in, don’t you?”  More about that later.

This morning we started a bit slow after catching up on sleep.  We boarded the Big Bus (Hop on Hop off tour bus) and got off at the St. Paul’s Cathedral stop.  From there we walked to 1 New Change (which is a mall) so Jack could take pictures of St. Paul’s from the building’s top outdoor observation floor.  The observatory isn’t known much to tourists being in a mall.

We got into St. Paul’s quickly with our London Pass and were directed to the guided tour.  While the tour guide was informative, we realized this was going to take a long time (at least 2 hours) and we had so many things yet to see.  When we handed back our headsets (used to hear the tour guide better) and told another guide that we only had a few days in London, she was the one who responded above.  Before we left, we did have time to climb the 378 steps up to the Cathedral’s dome (tiring but great views), climbed another untold number of steps to the Golden Gallery, and then descended and saw the American Chapel on the cathedral’s main level dedicated to the American’s who died in the 1st and 2nd World Wars.  In the gallery photos, one can see the 1 New Change observation level, far below.

Went to lunch at a local coffee shop and then got back on the bus.  Coffee shops in London are a fast growing trend.  We were going to get off in a few stops but ended up with great seats up top and a knowledgeable tour guide so we decided to stay on for the full loop.   We got off at Whitehall (by the gardens we saw yesterday) and walked to Westminster and Westminster Abbey (which unfortunately was already closed for the day).  We found a pub for refreshments and then walked to Buckingham Palace.  According to the flag flying, the Queen was in residence!

Got back on the bus and got off at Trafalger Square, which is the geographic center of London, walked toward the hotel, found another local pub for dinner, and called it another successful day!  As mentioned yesterday, we have found that most pubs serve food on different levels - above or below - than the main first floor bar area.  Seems happy hour, or whatever they call it here, is popular every night cramming the bars, but the dinner areas we have found so far to always be open with plenty of seating.

Day 1 - London

After a 7 1/2 hour flight, we arrived in London at 6:30 a.m.  We each only slept an hour or two on the plane even though our seats had extra leg room.  Took a hired car from Heathrow to our hotel near Covent Garden in London.   Since it was too early to check into our room, we left our luggage there and went to get some much needed coffee.

We walked to the London Eye, got a fast track ticket and boarded quickly.   We were a little worried we would fall asleep standing in the sun in a long line.  The views were great but we were about the only ones in our pod admiring them.  Everyone else seemed to just want to take selfies (yes, saying that ages us!). 

We walked around and found Whitehall Gardens by the Thames, where lots of tulips were blooming.  After Jack took beautiful photos of the tulips, we caught a taxi to the Victoria & Albert Museum, ate a bite in the their outdoor cafe and explored the museum.

We were on our way to Harrod’s department store but on the way found the Oratory of St. Philip Neri Catholic Church which was beautiful inside and much bigger than it looked from the street.   We don’t know who St. Phillip Neri is — Kathy started to look it up, but the article was too long.  A visit to Harrod’s followed.  Took the tube from there to near our hotel and ate dinner at an All Bar One.  

Returned to the hotel to check in and get our luggage into the room.  Then we raced to St. Paul’s Cathedral for the Evensong (mostly sung) service.  The service was a little longer than we expected with a lengthy sermon so we tried not to fall asleep! 

Tried to go into two different pubs afterwards but even on a Tuesday night London’s pubs are very crowded!  We didn’t realize that dinner in pubs is typically served on a different level and sometimes through a different door (but more about that tomorrow).  With no places to sit and tired feet, we went back to the hotel and were able to go into the lounge (because of Jack’s Hilton points status) where we got free wine and snacks! 

After being up for almost 33 hours, the day was done.

By going to the menu at the top of this page and into the galleries, you’ll find more photos at the England/Ireland page, including the beautiful tulips.